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face-cream1.jpgPeople have asked us what our opinion is on hydroquinone. Hydroquinone is a fairly controversial ingredient used in many skin lightening creams and gels. Hydroquinone is highly effective, which is why it’s used so commonly. It has been established as probably the most effective treatment for hyperpigmentation; although other treatments are coming along and we offer alternatives on our website.

Over-the-counter products can only contain up to 2% of hydroquinone by law. Hydroquinone, at this level is relatively safe for most people. And hydroquinone is effective. At higher concentrations (it is available in 4% and even more by prescription), it can have pretty serious side effects. Hydroquinone is not a bleaching agent. It prevents skin from making melanin, which gradually leads to skin fading. Hydroquinone doesn’t actually lighten skin, it disrupts new pigment production. As the older skin cells are sloughed off and the newer ones rise to the surface, the replacement skin cells don’t contain the excess pigment and skin gets lighter. This is a slight but important distinction.

There have been concerns about hydroquinone’s safety. The FDA proposed a ban on hydroquinone in August of 2006. Time was given for comments and many spoke out against the ban. So far that ban has not gone into effect. There are concerns that hydroquinone may be carcinogenic and contribute other serious conditions. However, dermatologists have opposed the ban as hydroquinone is pretty much the gold standard in skin lightening. Hydroquinone was banned in Europe several years ago, although there is a thriving black market for it there because it is so effective. Because of the concerns with prolonged hydroquinone use, we recommend against people using it daily for years. However, most people use it for a period of time and then discontinue its use, perhaps using it again later. Hydroquinone has been over in over-the-counter skin treatments for over 30 years. There is no direct evidence that cosmetic grade (and 2% concentration) hydroquinone is carcinogenic. That is why the ban has not actually taken place yet. Industrial grade hydroquinone and adulterated (substandard) products have caused problems which has led to anectdotal stories about hydroquinone being unsafe. Some imported products containing hydroquinone have also contained traces of mercury and other harmful ingredients. Treasured Locks will, of course, continue to monitor the research on this as more information becomes available. But, as of August 2007, the FDA has not chosen to implement the ban and dermatologists continue to recommend hydroquinone.

Treasured Locks offers both hydroquinone based skin lightening products and non-hydroquinone based products(usually labelled as being for sensitive skin). Here is what I would do if I needed a product to remove pigmentation. If I had very light hyperpigmentation that I thought might respond to a non-hydoquinone product, I would probably try that first. I like microdermabrasion. That, along with fade creams using fruit acids and other less aggressive ingredients might do the trick. If it turned out the scarring needed hydroquinone, I could always try that later. I would not use hydroquinone on adaily basis for decades (and I can’t imagine why anyone would). And, I would follow all precautions for use of the product including not using on children and not using it if I were pregnant.

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One Response to “Hydroquinone- Safe or Not?”

  1. skin care tip Says:

    skin care tip…

    My son is starting his second week of a bad case of poison ivy; went chasing a lacrosse ball into the shrubs around our neighborhood pond… He has two 1/2-inch boil-like spots, as well as the more common rash-style areas, and has missed two days of sc…

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